If someone asked you to name one of the UK's beautiful seaside towns or villages, your mind would probably jump straight to somewhere on the coast of Devon or Cornwall in the south-west of England, or maybe Kent or Sussex in the south-east. And even if somewhere in Wales did occur to you, you'd probably be thinking of somewhere in Pembrokeshire.
But there is a hidden gem on the coast of Carmarthenshire (which arguably is more famous for its rolling green hills than its coastline) that you should not ignore. In fact, you may well drive straight past it as you head west to Pembrokeshire. But if you turn off the busy A40 trunk road just outside the historic market town of Carmarthen and head down a quiet B-road through the countryside, after a little while you'll start to see a stretch of golden sand and the deceptively calm waters of the Tywi estuary.
Beyond it, perched commandingly on a hilltop, are the ruins of a large medieval castle. This is Llansteffan, a charming village that's not very well-known outside west Wales where, as well as the beach and castle, you'll find pubs, shops, places to eat and a distinct lack of crowds compared to the UK's other seaside and staycation hotspots.
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This lovely village sits on the northern shore of the Tywi estuary, where the river meets the waters of Carmarthen Bay after meandering down from the hills of mid Wales. The tidal ranges here are extreme so be careful when on the beach, which is perfectly safe as long as you pay attention to the water. The sand here is perfect: firm enough for sand castles, soft enough for that lovely, soft feeling as you walk barefoot.
When the tide is in, you'll be able to access Llansteffan beach itself, with direct access on foot straight from the village and a car park if you need it. Also there, you'll find a public toilet, small children's play area and a fish and chip hut, perfect for a fish supper on the beach. And when the tide is out, you'll also have access to the equally vast Scott's Bay, where the sand is still smooth but you also have some rock pools to explore.
This area of Wales has lots of castles, thanks to centuries of fighting between Anglo-Norman lords and warring Welsh tribes (who also fought each other as much as the English). To the north, deep in rural Carmarthenshire, you'll find the hilltop castles of Dinefwr, Dryslwyn and the spectacular Carreg Cennen all within a stone's throw of each other. A short hop along the coast to the west is the castle at Laugharne, while Kidwelly castle is a few miles to the east.
Llansteffan Castle is as stunning and unmissable as any of them. The 12th-century castle is perched on the headland, looking out over Carmarthen Bay from a site that's needed defending since prehistoric times. Though it has stood in ruins for hundreds of years, there is still plenty to explore and the views from the top are spectacular. Its imposing gatehouse, once the main point of entry, still stands as a powerful testament to its defensive capabilities, complete with arrow slits and strong walls.
Inside, the remaining towers and walls of the inner and outer wards offer insight into the castle's layout, which would have housed garrisons and served as a residence for the local lord.
You can walk up to the castle from the village or the beach on well-marked paths. Once there, you can roam inside, climb the battlements and take in the panoramic views — on a clear day, you can see for miles.
The standout place to eat in Llansteffan is Inn at the Sticks, a pub, restaurant and deli which was named last year as the Best Local Restaurant in Wales by the Good Food Guide. Its menu makes the most of Welsh produce, so you'll find dishes like cockle popcorn with crispy Welsh beer batter, scallop and sewin roulade, wild game farmhouse terrine and a beetroot "symphony" (beets prepared in five different ways). It's a special place which one reviewer called a "rare find".
It also has a handful of cosy rooms to stay overnight for a very reasonable £120-140 a night, perfect when all you want to do after all that sea air and delicious food is slowly make your way upstairs to bed. One reviewer said: "The rooms provide the same blend of charm and comfort. They are beautifully designed with vintage touches—like iron bed frames and low beamed ceilings—combined with modern amenities and complimentary Welsh cakes. The décor balances rustic charm with cosy elegance, making each room feel unique and intimate."
You can also find cute cottages to stay at on AirBnb.
You don't need to leave Llansteffan to fill a few days with fresh air, beach walks, history and great food. But if you did want to explore further afield, there are lots of places within just a short drive. On the other side of the estuary (though you'll first need to drive all the way back up the Tywi river to Carmarthen to get there) is the better-known town of Laugharne, made famous by Dylan Thomas who had his boathouse there.
Slightly further west is Pendine, one of the longest sandy beaches in the UK and home to historic land speed records. To the east is Pembrey Country Park and another huge sandy beach, Cefn Sidan. The vast park is a wonderful place to entertain children, with a great adventure playground, woodland and plenty of room for cycling along paved routes.
A bit further away, the Carmarthenshire towns of Llandeilo and Llandovery are beautiful rural market towns with lots of options for eating, drinking and places to stay.
