When my brother and I booked our trip to Italy, we wanted to see somewhere a little different. We had already been to the seaside town of Moneglia in Genoa - a sleepy village with incredible hospitality and proximity to the famed Cinque Terre.
We had also visited the gorgeous Tuscan cities Florence and Siena, and experienced their incredible cathedrals and culture. So, this time round, we decided on the southern Italian city of Naples, famous for its pizza, bustling nightlife and busy cobbled streets. Our flights booked, accommodation found and excitement building, we discovered something - almost everyone we spoke to about our plans had the same reaction - ‘Naples? Why would you go to Naples?’
It was described to us as ‘ropey’, ‘dangerous’ and ‘scary’. Rattled, I checked social media and found dozens of TikTok videos talking about why they would never return to Naples, saying everything from it gave ‘kidnapping vibes’ to claims it was ‘the most dangerous city in the world’.
To say I was panicked was an understatement - but this was a good lesson in why you shouldn’t believe everything you see online.
Our drive from the airport to our accommodation in the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter) was a little nerve wracking, Naples was unlike any other Italian city I had ever been to.
It is certainly a little run down, with potholed roads and graffiti on the walls. However, there was already something to love.
As our flight had been delayed, we didn’t arrive in Naples til about 1am, and our Airbnb host took it upon himself to personally drive to the airport and pick us up so we could get in, despite it being the early hours of the morning. This was an insight into the amazing people of Naples and their kindness.
Our first day we got out to explore the neighbourhood we were in and I fell in love with it. The Quartieri Spagnoli is a labyrinthe maze of cobbled streets with markets, shop fronts and homes all adorned in bunting.
Spirits were high as just days before our arrival Napoli had won its first Serie A title in 33 years - the Italian football league.
Portraits of Diego Maradona - a former Napoli player who is revered almost as a saint in Naples - adorn every second wall and photographs of him hung above the streets. The atmosphere was palpable and it was intoxicating.
Even just walking around the city was thrilling. People on mopeds zip past you on the narrow streets, and there are people everywhere. You hardly know where to look.
We decided to trek up to the Castel Sant’Elmo which is perched atop the city. Our walk took us steeply upwards past gorgeous villas and tiers of pastel coloured apartments; in the spring heat, it was an undertaking to make our way up the steep stairs to the castle, but the view from the top was jaw-dropping.
This medieval fortress dates back to 1275, where it served as an autonomous military outpost. Our tour of the castle and its walls offered incredible views over the Bay of Naples and to Mount Vesuvius which looms over Naples to the south.
The other incredible thing about Naples is how close it is to the ancient site of Pompei, somewhere I have wanted to visit ever since I was a child.
The ancient village which was lost to the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 A.D is one of the most well preserved historical sites in the world, with everything from homes to law courts to vinyards to wander through.
Just a half hour away on the train, we arrived at the site in the early morning but already the sun was beating down.
We opted out from a guided tour and rather picked up audio guides which allowed us to explore at our own pace. After talking to the guide at the site, he took our maps and circled the areas he thought we would find most interesting because Pompei is so massive it’s almost impossible to see it all in a day.
Taking our time we wandered through the ancient village, listening to the stories of the people who had lived there.
After a full day on our feet we headed back to the city for an evening drink and some food.
The nightlife in Naples is unbeatable - starting off with an aperol spritz in one of the many bars that are dotted throughout the city and watching the world go by, we moved on to sample some incredible Neapolitan pizza - the best in the world, some people say.
We spent three days in Naples, and we loved every minute of it. Yes, it’s busy and yes, crossing the road takes courage and a general disregard for your life but it is so alive.
The city hums with activity, the scenery is incredible and the people are wonderful.
You shouldn’t believe everything you read online, as I learned. But if you’re reading this and wondering if you should go to Naples - believe me, you should.